GLOSSARY
A
AATCC TM212-2021
A standardised method developed by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) to determine the fibres released from fabric specimens during the initial washing phase simulating laundering by typically using a machine which replicates the motion and agitation of a washing machine. This method is most commonly recognised in the U.S and is aligned with ISO 4484-1 and the TMC Test Method as it follows the same general procedure, requiring four specimens per test. Additionally, it also includes the option to use a standardised detergent in the simulated laundering process designed to reflect the most common detergents available to consumers. (source)
Aerobic degradation
The breakdown of organic pollutants by microorganisms when oxygen is present. (source)
Anthropogenic
Resulting from the influence of human beings on nature. (source)
B
Bioaccumulation
The process by which certain substances, such as pollutants or toxins, accumulate in the tissues of living organisms over time. These substances may enter the organism through ingestion, absorption, or inhalation, and once inside the body, they are often stored in fatty tissues, organs, or bones. (source)
Bioavailable
The degree and rate at which a substance is absorbed into a living system or is made available at the site of physiological activity. (source)
Biobased
A product wholly or partly derived from biomass, such as plants, trees or animals. (source)
Biodegradability
The ability of a product to biodegrade. See Biodegradation.
Biodegradation
Biodegradation is the breakdown of organic materials by microorganisms into simpler substances like CO2, CH4, water, biomass, and mineral salts under under oxygen-rich or oxygen-deprived conditions, defined by specific timeframes and environmental condition. (source)
Biomass
The biodegradable fraction of products, waste and residues from agriculture (including vegetal and animal substances), forestry and related industries, as well as the biodegradable fraction of industrial and municipal waste. (source)
Biota
All the organisms living in a particular environment, including plants, animals, and microorganisms. (source)
Brightfield Microscopy
Uses light to illuminate a sample placed on a glass slide and creates an image. The light passes through the sample, and an objective magnifies the image and projects it onto an eyepiece or a camera. (source)
C
Cellulose I
The primary component of natural plant fibres, the cellulose found in nature. (source)
Cellulose II
Called regenerated cellulose, describes the cellulose prepared by precipitating the dissolved cellulose into an aqueous medium. It is prepared using the mercerisation process, treating native cellulose in caustic soda. (source)
Chemical Recycling
The processes by which fibres are broken down to the polymer or monomer level. There are diverse recycling technologies encompassed under this archetype, including amongst others pulping processes to recycle cotton and viscose, to solvent-based processes to recycle polyester and polycotton, to processes such as glycolysis, hydrolysis and enzymatic that take polyester and polyamide back to monomers. (source)
D
Dynamic Image Analysis
Hohenstein, an international research and testing organisation, developed a test method known as DIN SPEC4872.This method is designed to assess fibre release during washing and includes two additional optional steps for evaluating aerobic degradation in aqueous environments and ecotoxicity. The protocol for measuring fibre loss incorporates traditional gravimetric analysis, such as the TMC Test Method or AATCC TM212 with the use of four specimens per tests, but also integrates a fibre characterisation technique, Dynamic Image Analysis (DIA). DIA provides detailed insights into fibre characteristics, as well as the total fibre quantity per gram of textile material, the average fibre length (μm), and the fibre length distribution. (source)
E
Effluent Treatment Plants
A treatment facility/plant that reduces, alters, or eliminates pollutants in wastewater discharge prior to release of the water into the environment via a combination of various treatment processes (e.g. physical, chemical and biological). Wastewater treatment plants may be privately owned and operated by the enterprise creating the wastewater, or they may be owned and operated by a private or public third-party. Also called wastewater treatment plant. (source)
e-learning
Training available online. No trainer is present during the training process. Participants can complete the training when it is convenient to them, stopping and starting modules at their convenience. (source)
End-of-Use
The stage where products are no longer usable or wanted, so are either discarded, recycled, or repurposed. (source)
Environmental Compartment
The different parts of the environments where fibre fragments can move through, accumulate, and interact with ecosystems. These include air, water, terrestrial, and biota. (source)
Emission
The production and discharge of something, especially gas. (source)
F
Fibre
A generic term for any one of the various types of matter that form the basic elements of a textile and which are generally defined as having flexibility, fineness, and high ratio of length to thickness. A material which is transformed into yarn (and typically into fabric and then finished products). (source)
Fibre Characterisation
Microscopic and analytical techniques used to identify and evaluate the physical and chemical properties of a fibre(s) within a sample, including composition, structure, and morphology in order to determine its type. (source)
Fibre Fragment
Any processed* fibrous material broken from a textile structure during production, use, end-of-use, as well as through its subsequent breakage in the natural environment.
*Processed is intended to encompass fibres that have undergone any form of mechanical or chemical processing. This includes natural fibres that are no longer in their raw, unprocessed state as found in the environment, as well as Man-Made fibres derived from synthetic and natural polymers. (source)
Fibre Fragmentation
Fibre Release
The process of fibre loss from a textile product during its life cycle and / or through its subsequent breakage in the natural environment. This is also referred to as fibre shedding. (source)
Finished Fabric Reference Point
Fractions of fibre loss that are ultimately released into different environmental compartments: water, air, terrestrial environments. (source)
The finished fabrics reference point is a quantitative indicator to credibly monitor and report on the general status of microfibre loss in tested finished fabrics as it changes over time.
Food Dilution
The process where ingested particles occupy space in the gut, reducing the available space for essential digestive processes and potentially hindering proper food intake or nutrient acquisition. (source)
H
Hydrophobic
Lacking affinity for water. Water repelling.
Hydrophilic
Having a strong affinity for water. (source)
I
ISO 4484-1
A standardised method developed by (CEN) and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) to measure the material loss from a fabric sample, by weight, under laundering test conditions. This method too simulates and it is most commonly recognised in Europe. It follows the same general procedure as AATCC TM212 and the TMC Test Method, though, requiring four rather than eight specimens per test, and prohibiting the inclusion of detergent. (source)
The method combines optical microscopy and molecular spectroscopy to quantify and characterise microplastics through sample preparation, filtration, and analysis. Its strength lies in the detailed characterisation of microparticles, providing insights into morphology, size distribution, polymer composition, surface area, and estimated weight. This enables precise quantification of microplastics across various size classes (5-5000 μm). However, it has limitations in distinguishing between some non-synthetic fibres. (source)
ISO 4484-3
ISO 4484-2
A standardised method developed by ISO to measure the quantity of fibres shed from a fabric or garment through a typical domestic wash using an electric machine. A domestic washing machine is used to find the quantity of fibre loss, by weight, to identify how much fibre would potentially be released into the wastewater bound for water treatment facilities through washing. This method can be repeated to collate the amount of fibre lost during multiple wash cycles and requires at least two specimens per test. (source)
L
Life Cycle
Consecutive and interlinked stages of a product system, from raw material acquisition or generation from natural resources to final disposal. (source)
M
Man-Made Fibre
A material whose chemical composition, structure, and properties are significantly modified during the manufacturing process. They can derive from synthetic or natural polymers. (source)
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibre
A group of fibres that are conventionally derived primarily from wood, and in some cases other sources of cellulose, such as bamboo or other plant matter. In the majority of MMCF production, wood is mechanically chipped and chemically processed into dissolving pulp, The solution is then dissolved into a viscose solution extruded through spinnerets into a chemical bath which reconstitutes the solution into individual MMCF fibres. (source)
Mechanical Recycling
The process by which textiles are cut, shredded and opened into fibres that are usable for diverse applications. They may include downcycling applications such as fibres for insulation, filling or non-woven for automotive and other industries as well as fibre-to-fibre applications. (source)
Membrane Filtration
Filtrations process that uses a selective barrier, called a membrane, to separate particles based on their size, allowing smaller molecules to pass through while retaining larger ones. (source)
Mechanism of Toxicity
Describe how the exposure of the chemical and physical properties of a toxicant leads to adverse effects in an organism. (source)
Microscope
An instrument that makes an enlarged image of a small object, thus revealing details too small to be seen by the unaided eye. (source)
Microfibre
The textile industry definition of a microfibre is a synthetic fibre with a linear density of less than 1 denier.
There is a different understanding of this term in the context of unintended release of fibres and thus subsequent microfibre pollution.
The Microfibre Consortium, in this context does not determine the size nor the type. To avoid such confusion, fibre fragment / fibre fragmentation is the preferred terminology.
Microplastic
A small piece of plastic debris measuring 5mm or less, found in the environment from the disposal or breakdown of consumer products and industrial waste. These particles can take various shapes, including spheres, pellets, foam, and irregular fragments. Therefore, also include synthetic fibre fragments.
Morphology
In biology, the study of the size, shape, and structure of animals, plants, and microorganisms and of the relationships of their constituent parts. (source)
N
Nanoparticle
Ultrafine nano-object with all external dimensions in the nanoscale (nm; 1 nm = 10-9 metre) where the lengths of the longest and the shortest axes of the nano-object do not differ significantly. (source)
Natural Fibre
A material that is produced by geological processes, or from the bodies of plants or animals. Examples include cotton, wool, silk, and flax. (source)
O
Oxidative Stress
A condition that may occur when there are too many unstable molecules called free radicals in the body and not enough antioxidants to get rid of them. This can lead to cell and tissue damage. (source)
P
Pathway
A route by which fibres are released to the environment following loss from a textile product. Different types of transfer pathways lead from loss to release. For example, wastewater, air or soil. (source)
Polarising Light Microscopy
A technique which employs the use of polarising filters to obtain substantial optical property information about the material which is being observed. (source)
Primary Data
information collected by a researcher to address a specific issue or problem. It is data that is unique, first-hand and from an original data source. (source)
Processed Fibre
Any fibre which undergoes some form of chemical or mechanical processing to be used for the fashion and textile industry. This includes natural fibres which are mechanically or chemically processed from their raw unprocessed within the environment, as well as Man-Made fibres derived from synthetic or natural polymers. (source)
R
Random Forest (RF) Modelling
Machine learning algorithm that combines the output of multiple decision trees to reach a result. It is used for both classification and regression.
Raw Fibre
Textile fibres, as cotton or wool, or textile filaments, as silk or nylon, that have received no manipulation or treatment. (source)
Root Cause
Determination of the variables that cause unintentional fibre loss and could be addressed through process improvement of material design and development to prevent it occurring during manufacture, use or end-of-use. (source)
S
Science-led
Driven by a scientific, evidenced based approach developed through peer-reviewed primary and desk-based research.
Secondary Clarifiers
Filtration process in which microorganisms and solids from treated wastewater settle at the bottom, forming activated sludge. The clarified water is then returned to the aeration tank with the cycle repeating until the effluent is clean before sent for filtration and/or disinfection. Waste sludge is removed and thickened prior to the digestion process. (source)
Secondary Data
A data source that is already in existence and is being used either for a purpose for which it was not originally intended or by someone other than the researcher who collected the original data. Secondary data can be raw data or published summaries that can be tailored according to research needs. (source)
Shedding
The process by which textile fibres are unintentionally lost from a textile. Also referred to as (fibre) loss. (source)
Sludge
The solid or semi-solid material separated during the wastewater treatment process. Includes septic and zero liquid discharge (ZLD) systems. (source)
Softener
A finishing agent that when applied to textile material improves its handle giving a pleasing touch. (source)
Source
The origin of fibre fragments, including manufacturing, consumer use and end-of-use stages. (source)
Synthetic Fibre
A Man-Made Fibre derived from fossil-fuels. Examples include polyester, polyethylene, acrylic, and elastane. (source)
T
Terrestrial Environment
Covers the soil and soil/air interface and the associated biological communities. (source)
Textile-to-Textile Recycling
The process of breaking down a garment or piece of cloth into its constituent fibers, and then creating a new textile or garment from those fibres. (source)
The Microfibre Data Portal
A data repository housing testing data and technical specifications of fabrics tested using the TMC Test Method, ISO method 4484-1 and AATCC TM212.
The TMC Test Method
Method for determining the quantity of textile material loss from fabrics under standard conditions which reflect those found in domestic laundering. Developed by TMC in collaboration with the University of Leeds and European Outdoor Group it measures fibre loss by weight by mimicking simulated domestic laundering, and it is aligned with ISO 4484-1 and AATCC TM 212 following the same general procedure.78 The test was established to enable direct comparisons among fabrics leading to a better understanding of the root causes
of fibre shedding. Although the TMC Test Method is not part of an internationally recognised standards body, it has been validated across the industry and is aligned with ISO 4484-1 and AATCC TM 212 as it follows the same general procedure. However, contrary to those methods, the TMC Test Method requires eight specimens per test and unlike AATCC TM 212 prohibits the inclusion of detergent.
The Under Armour Test method
Developed by Under Armour through the Proving Ground Testing Lab, it has now been formalised as DIN SPEC 19292.79 It uses a visual analysis technique and was designed to support mills and designers to classify textile material in terms of their fibre shedding tendency, in the early-stages of product development.Using different equipment to ISO, AATCC and TMC test methods, the method involves agitating a fabric sample in water to simulate a wash environment, filtering the wastewater to collect fibres fragments on a paper filter, and then examining the fibres under a microscope. The samples are scored qualitatively using a 1-5 visual scale to compare material loss across fabrics. (source)
A measure of the suspended solids in wastewater, effluent, or water bodies. Solids in water that can be trapped by a filter. To measure Total Suspended Solids the water sample is filtered through a pre-weighed filter. The residue retained on the filter is dried in an oven at 103–105°C until the weight of the filter no longer changes. (source)
Total Suspended Solids
The degree to which a substance (a toxin or poison) can harm humans, animals or other living organisms.
Translocation
Toxicology
The scientific study of the harmful effects of chemicals and / or substances have on people, animals and other living organisms.
Toxicity
The process where organisms ingest particles, which then move from the gut into other organs, potentially causing biological issues. (source)
U
Ultrafiltration
One of membrane filtration techniques in which external hydrostatic pressure pushes a liquid through a semipermeable membrane that is capable of removing target compounds from the bulk solution. (source)
V
Value chain
All entities involved in the circular life cycle of a product. (eg a garment/accessory/footwear) From the chemical manufacturer (chemical formulator) or farm through production (manufacturing facility), consumer and beyond. (source)
W
Wastewater
Water no longer meets the quality standard for reuse, which is directly or indirectly discharged from a facility. (source)
Wastewater Treatment Plant
See Effluent Treatment Plants
Wet processing
Manufacturing processes using water as a fluid that contacts the product being manufactured. For example, dyeing, finishing, printing, washing, and laundry processes. Non-contact, closed-loop boiler or cooling water are not considered wet processing. (source)
1
1dtex
The dtex number indicates how many grams a sewing thread of 10,000 m length weighs. Example 1 gram for 10,000 meters of fibre. (source)